wiring and diagram

A radio controlled electronic flash is a useful item in any photographers kit. Professionals use them all the time. For example, a wedding photographer would put one behind the bride to back-light her gown and veil. You dont want wires showing in a shot like that. To build this control you will need an old R/C car (the simplest sort) in which the car runs in reverse at switch-on and goes ahead only when the remote is operated. They can be picked up cheaply as school fetes and garage sales. A typical car will run from 3V (two cells) and use 9V in the transmitter.

Before proceeding, make sure that the electronics in the car are operating. It doesnt matter if the wheels are broken or the motor is dead. You need to gain access to the leads to the motor. Normally (ie, without the remote operating), one is positive with respect to the other. Label them accordingly. On pressing the remote button, the polarity of the motor leads should swap. You will also need a flash extension cord you can cut into two sections. At the transmitter, the camera end of the extension cord is fed into the case and soldered to the control button contacts, as shown in Fig.1.



The contacts are in series with the battery supply, so if you dont want to open the transmitter, just cut one of the battery leads and connect the flash extension cord into the gap so created. You will then need to tape down the remote button so that it is permanently operated (ie, closed). All that needs to be done at the receiver end is to connect the normally negative motor lead to the gate circuit of an SCR, as shown in Fig.2, while the normally positive lead goes to the cathode of the SCR. Now, when the transmitter is operated by the cameras contacts, the lead polarity is reversed and the SCR acts as a switch to fire a portable electronic flash via the other half of the flash extension cord.

The transmitter can be attached to the camera via a flash bracket or a screw into the tripod socket, depending on what is the most convenient arrangement. The added components in the receiver can be mounted on Veroboard and housed in the space where the electric motor was. If appearance is a primary consideration, the receiver and the added components could be mounted in a standard jiffy box.